Issue 00390 

Oct 8 - 14, 2005

Features

Hubert Sauper, the film director.

'Darwin's Nightmare!' A film with dark revelations

Darwin's Nightmare is a movie, a very latest one at that, having been released only about two months ago. It was filmed last year, around Lake Victoria and the end result is a disturbing documentary about sub-Saharan African politics, negative impacts of globalization in Tanzania and the fish industry environment threats to the lake.

Darwin's nightmare is expected to be screened here in Arusha on Thursday, the 27th of October, at the Via-Via gardens (Boma Museum), as from 8.15 p.m.

The Movie

This is a Hubert Sauper's acclaimed documentary, a compelling cautionary tale that clearly shows how, in this age of globalization, things can easily evolve in the worst possible of unforeseen ways. Back in the 1960s someone poured some non-native fish species into Lake Victoria, a giant water body joining the three East African countries.

The profoundly predatory Nile Perch was far bigger than its native rivals and, in killing off most species, also had a deleterious effect on the human population: farmers moved to the lake to become fishermen and satisfy the European and Russian demand for fish, which in turn caused massive economic change, sickness, poverty and, inevitably, political skulduggery.

Witty, provocative, angry and heart-breaking, this incisive, imaginative film ranges wide in the subjects it covers. Filming undercover gave Sauper access to an impressive array of people, from businessmen and pilots to prostitutes and EU politicians, some of them alarmingly frank in their admissions. Less an exposé of corrupt individuals than a terribly lucid investigation into mankind's mad capacity for (self-)destruction.

The story synopsis

" .... Some time in the 1960's, in the heart of Africa, a new animal was introduced into Lake Victoria as a little scientific experiment. The Nile Perch, a voracious predator, extinguished almost the entire stock of the native fish species. However, the new fish multiplied so fast, that its white fillets are today exported all around the world ...."

" .... Huge hulking ex-Soviet cargo planes come daily to collect the latest catch in exchange for their southbound cargo… Kalashnikovs and ammunition for the uncounted wars in the dark center of the continent. This booming multinational industry of fish and weapons has created an ungodly globalized alliance on the shores of the world's biggest tropical lake: an army of local fishermen, World bank agents, homeless children, African ministers, EU-commissioners, Tanzanian prostitutes and Russian pilots ...."

From the film maker's point of view

We had to be very close to our "characters" and follow their lives over long periods. I feel like they are an important part of my existence now. When you look out for contrasts and contradictions, reality can become "bigger than life". So in a way it was easy to find striking images because I was filming a striking reality.

But it was also easy to get into trouble. On location in Tanzania we could never really show up as a regular film team. In order to fly with cargo planes we had to disguise ourselves as pilots and load-masters carrying fake identities. In villages we were mistaken as missionaries, and in fish factories managers feared we might be EU hygiene inspectors.

We had to become Australian businessmen in the fancy hotel bars, or just harmless backpackers in the African bush, "taking pictures". Many days were lost in front of sweating, confused and questioning police officers, on checkpoints and in local prisons. A good part of the filming budget was wasted just paying for our freedom in bribes and fines.

The national newspaper headlines and even the BBC in London declared, "French and American journalists kidnaped by bandits on Lake Victoria". Since the writer Nick Flynn from New York was traveling with us, the US embassy in Dar es Salaam started frantically ringing the alarm for their lost citizens. There was no kidnaping, however, but once again we had been held back on a remote fishing island - this time accused of shooting "blue movies" with naked girls.

Nightmare in Mwanza streets

"Billed as a study of the Nile perch, a ruthlessly effective predator introduced into Lake Victoria 30 years ago, Darwin's Nightmare is in fact hardly about that at all. True, these giant fish are a constant presence in Hubert Sauper's sobering documentary, but the focus is not the lake's ecosystem but the personal stories of those who work in the fishing, filleting and transport industries that have colonized the Tanzanian shore.

Every day, vast Russian planes arrive in Mwanza airport in the north west of the country, leaving with a daily cargo of 500 tons of Nile perch destined for the Russian and European markets. What these planes carry on their way into Africa is a mystery that nobody wants to talk about, until a solitary,
subdued pilot admits that he flies tanks and other weapons into Angola.

That's where the real money lies. The fish are simply a bonus that fill up the planes on the flight back to Europe. Most of the local people involved with the Nile perch have no idea about the
hardware passing through their country. Many are grateful to the industry for the employment it provides, but it attracts domestic problems too. The job hunters flooding into the area encourage the spread of AIDS, while the large number of men with a little cash in their pockets and nothing to spend it on allows prostitution to flourish.

The cruellest irony is that while so much fish is exported to Europe, Tanzania itself is struggling to avoid famine, so a secondary industry has grown up drying and roasting the decayed, discarded fish carcasses, salvaging what nourishment remains. Darwin's nightmare is a desperately sad story, told by people who accept their plight with astonishing serenity. It is a great injustice that not all of them live through to the end of filming."
Reviewed by: Valentine Marc Nkwame



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